Andrew Graham: “Life affirming vitality”

Sparkling wine without the bubbles. That’s the mode here, with this Piccadilly Valley pink from Xavier Bizot & Lucy Croser. A blend of 56% Pinot Noir and 46% Chardonnay fruit handpicked for fizz, with this rosè from the pressings. Spends 7 months in old oak. Very faint onion skin pink, this tastes like sparkling base but it’s not harsh or sharp edged – indeed it’s delicate and has a vinosity to it. That acidity is a bit tart, but just adds to the freshness. Life affirming vitality, even if it’s maybe a little too lean to be truly smashable.