Vigneron Xavier Bizot is an anomaly in the Australian wine community. Having grown up in the refined milieu of Champagne Bollinger and the Piccadilly Valley of South Australia, he has absorbed two cultures in equal parts. His father Christian Bizot was one of the most enlightened and influential figures in Champagne around the 1990s and his father-in-law Brian Croser is a major intellectual force within the Australian Wine Industry. Although French by birth, his fascination for French and Australian history, highlights a genuine pride in his family’s combined heritage and adopted country. When Xavier and his wife Lucy acquired the Crayères Vineyard in 2004, it was an instinctive attraction to the ancient Gambier limestone geology of the Wrattonbully region. Although distinctly different to Champagne, the familiarity and possibilities of this unique terroir perhaps instilled a quest for belonging and creating.
The Crayères vineyard, located atop a north-south limestone ridge, was named after the chalk cellars of the Champagne region. The aolian (wind blown) terra rossa topsoil and maritime climate – sometimes swinging to continental weather patterns – are ideal for wine grape growing. Wrattonbully lies just north of Coonawarra – with only the Comaum Forest Reserve and low rolling landscape dividing the two regions.
The acquisition and planting of the Crayères Vineyard in 2004, followed Brian Croser’s purchase of the nearby Koppamurra (now-known as Whalebone Vineyard) which was established by John Greenshields in 1974. Xavier and Lucy planted their high-density vineyard with sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon (including Reynell Selection), merlot, cabernet franc and shiraz. Their aim is to produce ‘world class wine with great aging potential’.
It simply takes years to understand the potential of a vineyard and how to achieve the best possible wine. A singular outlook, shaped by family values, technical skills and a journey of trial and adaptation, has led to a swag of highly individual and charming wines.
2023 Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (96 points), based on 100% sauvignon blanc, is a graceful and refined wine with a distinct hallmark of craftsmanship. While the wine might bear characteristics of vineyard site, the overall style has been fashioned through vinification in barrel, lees contact and maturation in oak. With its pure lemon glacé, hint lime pastille, herb, tonic water aromas/ flavours and lacy textures, it offers a transparency and complexity that differs from the mainstream. It’s a beautiful gastronomic wine with compelling clarity, texture and refreshing mineral length.
Ten years apart and made in a lightly different way, 2013 Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (95 points) showed similar characteristics. Remarkably fresh and lithe, it has developed a lovely waxy/ honeyed complexity, creamy richness and al-dente textures. A refreshing quartz-like acidity runs through it. The Terre à Terre Sauvignon Blancs are an outlying style from an Australian perspective, but quite classic (and better value) when compared to Bordeaux Blanc. The 2023 release is delicious to drink and the perfect accompaniment to a meal.
Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon series is primarily based on Reynell Selection and CW44 clones. The first dates back to the turn of the 19th/20th Century and originally derives from Chateau Reynella, whereas the latter is a clone deriving from Wynns Coonawarra Estate. Both are exceptional performers and planted on 100% terra rossa soils over 35-million year old limestone. A Shiraz component has played a more dominant role in the blend in recent times. This has clearly made a big difference with the wines being more approachable at a young age.
2022 Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz (95 points), aged in seasoned French oak for 14 months, is elemental and vigorous (as it should be) with a classical claret-like structure. It was also the highlight of four vintages (2014,2018,2021 & 2022). Intense cassis/ pure blackcurrant, blackberry hint brambly fruits are underpinned by fine-grained cedary/ firm tannins and roasted walnut, hint mocha notes. The shiraz (43%) part of the blend brings an overall roundness and mid palate buoyancy. The wine has excellent flow and torque, suggesting a long life ahead in the cellar.
2021 Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz (96 points), from a more classic growing season, also showed the benefit of an extra year of bottle age with attractive dark berry fruits, a touch of praline and herb garden. The structure is also fine grained, a touch weightier than the 2022, but finishing firm and long. The cabernet (66%) dominates, but the shiraz also compliments the framework beautifully.
Terre à Terre’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon series is based on the best parcels of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and shiraz. The wines are more strident and dense, reflecting the selection process and the need for sufficient concentration and flavour to work with 100% new oak maturation.
2019 Terre à Terre Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (96+ points) is a cracker but idiosyncratic wine; much in the same way as Bordeaux’s Chateau Roteboeuf. It’s the type of claret style that would win a prize in the Australian Burgundy classes of yore. Voluminous and inky deep, it is showing lifted cassis, cedar, dried apricot, hint wood varnish aromas and flavours, fine supple/slinky textures and well-integrated roasted chestnut notes. This is a terrific ‘vin de garde’ with all the elements for long term aging. A highwater mark for Terre à Terre.
2020 Terre à Terre Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (94 points) does not have quite the same presence, but has a similar disposition and shape. Generous, supple and chocolaty with musky plum, cassis, praline flavours, it promises more with further bottle age.
In addition, Xavier and Lucy Bizot’s 2019 DAOSA Blanc de Blancs (96 points) is a delicious traditional method sparkling wine based on 1995-plantings of chardonnay at Summertown in the Piccadilly Valley. Its attractive white peach, marzipan, hint demi-glace aromas and flavours, fine sinuous bead and fresh crisp mouthwatering acidity makes it an ideal aperitif sparkling wine. DAOSA stands for Dedicated Artisans of South Australia; a quirky brand name with a heartfelt sense of purpose and wonderful potential.
