Author: Tony Love
Source: the Advertiser
Date: 16 December 2017
Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2015
After all the end of year what’s hot, what’s next and best ofs, there’s one last favourite mini-trend I’ve loved and want to see more of.
It is … drum roll … cabernet franc. Volume wise, recognition wise, it’s a rarity here. Its better-known relation, cabernet sauvignon, has gained all the glory as one of our traditional reds of choice.
In grape DNA/ancestry terms, cabernet franc is a parent of cabernet sauvignon. It’s best known as one of the key varieties of Bordeaux blends in France and here in Australia, as well as a single varietal in France’s Loire region where it’s styled in a lighter to medium bodied, fragrant and fresh red fruited wine, with trademark acidity.
Over the past year it has found a way out of its regular appearances in the cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot blends from regions like the Coonawarra, Yarra Valley, McLaren Vale, Barossa, Margaret River, and even Tasmania’s north.
Tim Shand, at Yarra Valley-based Punt Road and Airlie Bank labels, has been an early adopter, while Kate Goodman, now also leading the winemaking team at Coonawarra’s Penley Estate, has developed a terrific varietal from the franc fruit usually found in its traditional Argus, Chertsey and Argus red blends.
Her Penley Estate 2017 Spring Release Cabernet Franc ($35) shows no oak influence, and exudes delicious, medium-bodied elderberry and mulberry acidity and flavours — and is spot on seasonal red drinking.
Also from Coonawarra, Leconfield has put the variety in lights with its Leconfield 2016 Cabernet Franc ($29) taking out the trophy for best alternative red variety at this year’s Limestone Coast Wine Show. No wonder. Its winemakers note that it has a rose blossom perfume during fermentation, and that still wafts from the glass with crushed red berries, spices, and a subtle grip for mouth-watering length.
A medium to fuller bodied style comes from nearby Wrattonbully, where Xavier Bizot’s Terre a Terre 2015 Cabernet Franc ($39) leaves you without doubt of its ancestry. Crushed blackberries, blackcurrants, elderberry, with a dash of oak and fine dusty tannins all add up to a deep-set, red wine without heaviness — and it drinks delightfully.
They’re all a contemporary view of the cabernet varietal experience and perfect for barbecues, Christmas dinner and pizza.
