“Very smart wine.” – 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon

CREATING CLASSIC AUSTRALIAN WINES

Note that this is sealed with a cork, even though it has been under screwcap previously. Xavier (Bizot, who runs Terre à Terre with wife Lucy) told me a little while ago that he was moving back to cork because he thought this Cabernet needed cork not screwcap. Interesting. Looks like an expensive cork too.

Author: Andrew Graham
Source: Australian Wine Review
Review Date: Monday, July 13, 2015

As ever, what makes this wine so very good is the detail. From a vineyard in Wrattonbully with close spacing (and they’re stumpy little vines), the Cabernet Sauvignon complemented by 5% Cabernet Franc. Importantly, this enjoys a different take in the winery, with a decent pre and post ferment maceration that only helps to give this some superb, ‘I’ve been to Bordeaux and tasted all of your growths’ tannins. Why aren’t more Aussie Cabernet producers doing this? Fermented in one large new oak foudre (4,000L) for 12 months then 10 months in an aged foudre. 900 cases of 6 proclaims the back label precisely.

A dark, red/purple red, this has an excellent nose – real Cabernet with cedar, a dash of spearmint, cassis and anise. Yum. That flows into a long palate of purple fruits, more cassis and dry, ultra fine powdery tannins. It’s quite inky all things considered, even finishing a fraction warm. But those tannins – oh yes, they’re sexy. Fine, bittersweet, real tannins, giving structure to what is an intensely flavoured, more classically South Australian Cabernet in its fruit profile.

Very smart wine. Maybe just a little warm and full, but structurally compelling. Wrattonbully via Bordeaux. Very well priced too.

Best drinking: 2015-2030.
18.5/20, 94/100+

Would I buy it? Yes. I’m interested to see how it looks into the future – will it become more svelte or bulge out into breadth? Enjoyable experiment methinks.

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