Andrew Graham: “polished, substantial and well made”

I’m torn. This is so polished and ripe and has a real Pinosity – but is it just a bit too much of a serious dry red rather than a Pinot? From the Summertown vineyard in the Adelaide Hills, the blend includes 15% whole bunches and matured in 40% new oak. Bottled unfined in January 2018.

Compared to previous vintages this is an instantly more elegant style, the nose still leans towards glacé red fruit and cranberry, but with more fragrance. Milky oak is an influence, albeit in the background. I know it might sound weird, but this tastes like a Bordeaux winemakers Pinot Noir. That’s not a bad thing, but a marker of the style – and indeed this is polished, substantial and well made.